Questions We Hear Most Often

The most useful details are: the room type, the approximate square footage, whether you already have a tile selected, and the current floor or wall surface condition. Photos help a lot, especially if there is existing tile to remove or an unusual substrate situation. You do not need to have everything figured out before reaching out — a rough description is enough to have a useful first conversation.

Either arrangement works. Some homeowners have already purchased tile; others prefer us to source it. When we source, we work with distributors who carry a wide range of porcelain, ceramic, and natural stone — we can show you options within your budget. If you supply the tile, we will review the material before install day to confirm it is the right format and finish for the planned surface.

A standard kitchen backsplash is typically a single-day job. A full bathroom with a tub surround or walk-in shower usually runs two to four days — partly because waterproofing layers need cure time before tile goes up. A large-format floor installation in an open-plan space can take one to three days depending on the area and pattern complexity. We will give you a realistic timeline in the estimate, not an optimistic one.

Both are kiln-fired clay products, but porcelain is fired at higher temperatures with a denser clay body, which makes it less porous and harder. For floors, especially in high-traffic or wet areas, porcelain is generally the more durable choice. Ceramic is lighter, easier to cut, and often less expensive — it works well for walls, backsplashes, and lower-traffic floors. The distinction matters for grout joint sizing and the tools needed to cut them cleanly.

Rectified tiles are cut to a precise, consistent dimension after firing — the edges are ground flat and square. This allows for very tight grout joints (sometimes as narrow as 1/16 inch) and a more seamless appearance. Non-rectified tiles have slight dimensional variation from the kiln, so they require slightly wider joints to accommodate the differences. If you are going for a large-format minimal-grout look, rectified tile is the right call. For a more handmade or rustic look, non-rectified is often intentionally chosen.

A standard rule is 10% overage for straight-lay patterns. Diagonal layouts and herringbone patterns generate more cuts and should be ordered at 15% over the measured square footage. Oddly shaped rooms with lots of corners and cuts warrant 15% as well. We calculate the overage recommendation in your estimate and will flag it if the tile you have chosen is a special order or difficult to match later.

Grout cracking is almost always a sign of movement in the substrate — either the mortar bed was not fully cured when grouted, the substrate flexes under foot traffic, or expansion joints were not included at room perimeters and transitions. Grout is rigid; it does not flex. When the floor moves even slightly, grout joints absorb the stress and crack. We address this by ensuring proper mortar cure time, using appropriate uncoupling membrane on wood subfloors, and always installing perimeter expansion joints that are filled with a flexible caulk in a matching color rather than grout.

For most cement-based grouts, yes — especially on floors and kitchen surfaces where staining is likely. Grout is porous by nature and will absorb cooking oils, cleaning products, and foot traffic grime without a sealer. We apply a penetrating sealer as the final step on all floor and kitchen tile jobs. Epoxy grout, which we sometimes recommend in showers or commercial applications, does not require sealing because it is non-porous. We will tell you which type was used and what the ongoing maintenance looks like before we leave.